The DSSC Wordsmiths Series brings to you the thoughts of some of our amazing members as they share their opinion, sentiment, perspective on food, tipples, the city and life.
Unlike most cities where nostalgia plays a crucial role in forming impressions, I only made my way to Ahmedabad for the first (real) time in 2014. I was already ‘adulting’ and there wasn’t anything I could point to with familiarity or find any sense of longing towards. I must confess that a trip in 2006 to the city doesn’t count. We had then traveled to Ahmedabad to participate in a quiz and spent 24 hours in the city, after having traveled by train, which took far longer because of lengthy delays. All we saw on that short visit was the ceiling of our shoddy guesthouse room, the hall where the quiz preliminaries were held and the large convention center where the finals were conducted. We won the quiz and celebrated with fruit champagne (I think by midnight a bootlegger had won our hearts with a delivery of beer), Swati Snacks and a bed sheet that flew over the balcony and created quite a furor in the morning. But, let bygones be bygones!
Ever since I moved back to India in the winter of 2011, I’ve had itchy feet, a sense of adventure and the constant need to travel. There is much to be discovered as one takes flights, trains and buses across the length and breadth of this incredible country. Such adventure might also be indicative towards a nomadic lifestyle that isn’t great for relationships (clearly).
dnaindia.com
Having spent close to three weeks in Ahmedabad over several visits in 2014-16, I arrived at a conclusion that Ahmedabad is among the most interesting cities not just in India but also in Asia. The food scene is as diverse as it gets! The Gujarati community at large is warm, welcoming and has an attractive fare to boast of. Despite the presence of a broad coastline (which one would imagine provide tons of seafood) the majority in the city of Ahmedabad are vegetarian (at home). There’s a culture of ‘snacking’ through the day and in between meals, which works very well for me!
This might surprise you but if I were to list the top 5 places to eat non-vegetarian food in the country, not fine dining, but more in comparison to a Karim’s or Al-Jawahar’s in Delhi and/or Shiraz or Arselan in Calcutta, Bade Miyaan or similar establishments on Md. Ali Road in Bombay; among the best meals I’ve had has been in Old Ahmedabad!
cntraveller.in
The mutton keema-kaleji preparation blew my mind; the chicken pulao had flavors of cinnamon, saffron and cardamom, when you put that spoon in your mouth (I mostly eat with my hands) – you were pretty much on the stairway to heaven with Jimmy Page and Robert Plant by your side. The gentleman who stood tall behind the massive steel utensils (many of these utensils were being used to cook meals that required slow fire over long durations) in the open kitchen told me the story of how most recipes were handed down to him by his grandmother. The family hails from the Kutch region and there is a strong presence of Gujarati Muslims in the older part of the city – several of them run eating establishments and cook themselves. He then proceeded to treat me to mutton bhoona, the generous helpings of coriander leaves really added to the flavor, some of the finely chopped leaves drifted into the gravy, much like how rivers meet the ocean! Close your eyes and imagine it. Yup, there’s definitely some oil in that visual!
I made a list of places to eat in the old city. It allowed me to better understand how the community comes together – over food. The clientele consists of many who are vegetarians at home. It’s very interesting for an outsider to watch and observe how people come together – over food (mostly) and conversation.
I will be happy to share a list with those who are interested to take a walk into the old city and try for themselves the exquisite preparations of Mughlai food. The names of dishes change from eatery to eatery – some call it Shahjahani while others call it Jahangiri! The use of ghee, nuts, raisins, an array of spices – really does give your palate a joyful ride.
Arjun Puri
The other places that I went to (all vegetarian) and would definitely go to again are:
- Agashiye (House of Mg) – the experience as much as the food. I had a food coma after eating here! Loved their kadi.
- Law Garden – Street food, go with your gut and take your pick. The Khau Gali is an absolute must! The rickshaw drivers sometimes refer to Law Garden as Love Garden.
- Choice – It’s very popular with the locals and I can see why! It’s one of those places where you’ll see loyal customers wading in to eat their favorite items on the menu. Their Pav Bhaji is pretty good!
- Vishala is another place that does a fabulous Gujarati Thali.
- Swati Snacks – I was a happy chappy at this joint! It’s comfort food at its best.
So, next time you’re in Ahmedabad – plan, pace and knock yourselves out!
A true explorer, Arjun has always been a great source of facts, lore and let’s not forget humour! The closeted writer and out & out gastronome relies on his travels across the globe to build his bank of knowledge. Most days though, he’s in OP Jindal Global University inspiring the students of Law & Liberal Arts.
